Return-Path: Delivered-To: diana@transocean.com Received: from vps.transocean.com by vps.transocean.com (Dovecot) with LMTP id Ka4TNMX1V1j5RwAAInt2oQ for ; Mon, 19 Dec 2016 06:59:17 -0800 Return-path: Envelope-to: diana@transocean.com Delivery-date: Mon, 19 Dec 2016 06:59:17 -0800 Received: from [75.127.10.107] (port=49626 helo=rrdspdexpress.com) by vps.transocean.com with esmtp (Exim 4.87) (envelope-from ) id 1cIzPF-0004me-0Y for diana@transocean.com; Mon, 19 Dec 2016 06:59:17 -0800 Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2016 09:56:02 -0500 From: "Making Rite-Aid Better" Mime-Version: 1 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="PhBtZ3ebIaKxrkGHOWDLl0VmsR6cwvo" To: Bounce: 05934583245-N1 Message-Id: <211018029094.534617967004.000001@mx30.rrdspdexpress.com> X-List: 17967004.342959238629734 Subject: We've got 50.00 with your name on it (literally!), if you'll answer our quick Customer Experience Improvement questionaire. Reply-To: "Kate Santiago" X-Spam-Status: No, score=2.8 X-Spam-Score: 28 X-Spam-Bar: ++ X-Ham-Report: Spam detection software, running on the system "vps.transocean.com", has NOT identified this incoming email as spam. The original message has been attached to this so you can view it or label similar future email. If you have any questions, see root\@localhost for details. Content preview: I can't make the meeting. Is taht going to be OK? DO NOT use a cheater cord (aka suicide cord). This is a hacked-up extension cord with two male ends. It's an electrocution hazard and can easily feed electricity back into the grid, both which are bad things. [...] Content analysis details: (2.8 points, 5.0 required) pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------------- 0.0 URIBL_BLOCKED ADMINISTRATOR NOTICE: The query to URIBL was blocked. See http://wiki.apache.org/spamassassin/DnsBlocklists#dnsbl-block for more information. [URIs: rrdspdexpress.com] -0.0 SPF_HELO_PASS SPF: HELO matches SPF record -0.0 SPF_PASS SPF: sender matches SPF record 0.8 BAYES_50 BODY: Bayes spam probability is 40 to 60% [score: 0.4884] 0.0 HTML_FONT_LOW_CONTRAST BODY: HTML font color similar or identical to background 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message 2.0 RDNS_NONE Delivered to internal network by a host with no rDNS 0.0 T_REMOTE_IMAGE Message contains an external image X-Spam-Flag: NO --PhBtZ3ebIaKxrkGHOWDLl0VmsR6cwvo Content-type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-transfer-encoding: 8bit I can't make the meeting. Is taht going to be OK? DO NOT use a cheater cord (aka suicide cord). This is a hacked-up extension cord with two male ends. It's an electrocution hazard and can easily feed electricity back into the grid, both which are bad things. DO NOT directly connect the generator to your main panel without a transfer switch or interlock. You may remember to turn off the main breaker before energizing the generator, but if you happen to forget that once, or someone else in your family does the setup, the results can be disastrous. Linemen working on fixing the lines can be electrocuted and generators have been known to short out or explode if connected when the main power comes back on. Option 1: Use extension cords. Simply get a number of extension cords for your fridge, lamps, and other required appliances. Your standard 16ga extension cord will be fine for anything other than window AC units or space heaters. For those, you'll need headvy duty, 12ga extension cords. The lighter duty ones can easily overheat. The downside of this option is that any hard-wired appliance (heat, well pump, etc) won't work. No permit is required. Option 2: Use a transfer switch. These can be purchased for 150-300+ and will allow a certain number (4/6/8/12) circuits to be switched between mains and generator power. It will be wired next to your main panel and you'll pick the most important circuits to be switched. Add an inlet and a twist-lock extension cord and you will have a professional installation. A permit and inspection is required in most areas. Option 3: Main breaker interlock. Some, but not all, main panels have interlock kits which are a mechanical plate and other pieces that allow either the main breaker OR the generator breaker to be on. There are also some after-market interlock kits which are UL tested but may or may not be accepted by your local inspector. The best course of action is to print out the details and ask your inspector before buying the hardware. If approved, this method allows any combination of circuits to be run by the generator, limited of course by the wattage of the generator. Again, a permit is required in most areas. Option 1.5: If you're not ready for a full transfer switch, you can get a one-circuit transfer switch for a gas furnace. You'll still use extension cords, but it's a code-legal way of attaching a fixed appliance. There are multiple options out there, but here's an example: Reliance TF151W Single Circuit Manual Transfer Switch 15 Amp (http://bit.ly/W2rIHy) http://www.rrdspdexpress.com/ by RTI ServiceWalter-Manning Team Eight-Four-One-Lake-Road-Stonewall-LA-71078 Remove your email here (http://hol.rrdspdexpress.com/) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --PhBtZ3ebIaKxrkGHOWDLl0VmsR6cwvo Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-transfer-encoding: 8bit I can't make the meeting. Is taht going to be OK?

DO NOT??use a cheater cord (aka suicide cord). This is a hacked-up extension cord with two male ends. It's an electrocution hazard and can easily feed electricity back into the grid, both which are bad things.

DO NOT??directly connect the generator to your main panel without a transfer switch or interlock. You may remember to turn off the main breaker before energizing the generator, but if you happen to forget that once, or someone else in your family does the setup, the results can be disastrous. Linemen working on fixing the lines can be electrocuted and generators have been known to short out or explode if connected when the main power comes back on.


Option 1:
Use extension cords. Simply get a number of extension cords for your fridge, lamps, and other required appliances. Your standard 16ga extension cord will be fine for anything other than window AC units or space heaters. For those, you'll need headvy duty, 12ga extension cords. The lighter duty ones can easily overheat. The downside of this option is that any hard-wired appliance (heat, well pump, etc) won't work. No permit is required.

Option 2:
Use a transfer switch. These can be purchased for $150-$300+ and will allow a certain number (4/6/8/12) circuits to be switched between mains and generator power. It will be wired next to your main panel and you'll pick the most important circuits to be switched. Add an inlet and a twist-lock extension cord and you will have a professional installation. A permit and inspection is required in most areas.

Option 3:
Main breaker interlock. Some, but not all, main panels have interlock kits which are a mechanical plate and other pieces that allow either the main breaker OR the generator breaker to be on. There are also some after-market interlock kits which are UL tested but may or may not be accepted by your local inspector. The best course of action is to print out the details and ask your inspector before buying the hardware. If approved, this method allows any combination of circuits to be run by the generator, limited of course by the wattage of the generator. Again, a permit is required in most areas.

Option 1.5:
If you're not ready for a full transfer switch, you can get a one-circuit transfer switch for a gas furnace. You'll still use extension cords, but it's a code-legal way of attaching a fixed appliance. There are multiple options out there, but here's an example:??Reliance TF151W Single Circuit Manual Transfer Switch 15 Amp

 

 

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